How to make a power supply from energy-saving lamps. Power supply: what can be done from an energy-saving lamp? What can be obtained from an energy-saving lamp
Thanks, I'm not an electrician myself, but it was interesting. In my version, unfortunately, the flask ended = (Wolta 75w spiral
Vladimir.
These lamps are in demand as long as LEDs are still expensive.
Their repair is more for the sake of curiosity than profit. If it turned out to save money without throwing it away and not buying a new one, then this is just another additional plus.
Especially if you add up the cost of all the parts (if you buy them separately in a store), then the price is several times higher than the cost of a new lamp. Those. Not every repair of such financially profitable.
You're right about the repair, it's not worth it. But the board with the base is stored in a safe place and is waiting in the wings. But the diodes did not like. No, it's not about the price. About 3-4 months ago I bought a few pieces - a Chinese Ecomir and a pair of Philips. According to the subjective opinion, after spending the evenings under these analogs of "Ilyich's light bulb", I became noticeably more tired. One evening I dropped a box of matches and saw that the approach to the floor was accompanied by a stroboscopic effect. I decided that this was not good and screwed back the fluorescent ones.
LED lamps are very different (by the way, like gas ones).
Flicker is also different for different models. Unfortunately, the seller does not indicate this parameter, so you need to study independent tests or make your own.
If you have already bought it (and a good LED lamp is generally not cheap), then it just makes sense to try to upgrade it. But that is another story...
about the set-diode lamps, I found my know-how on how to choose a normal lamp without flickering in the store. By the way, flickering-pulsation indicates that the lamp uses the simplest power supply circuit for LEDs - through a diode bridge and a capacitor, i.e. without any electronic drivers. so. it’s very easy to decide on a lamp in a store. now, in almost every mobile phone, with the exception of the simplest dialers, there is a camera. , a kind of vest. Do not take such a lamp! By the way, among unknown Chinese brands there are decent lamps without pulsation, and how many types of maxus I have seen, all frank junk.
Good way. :)
Although in such testing the result will probably be affected by the frame rate in the camera, but for a rough estimate it is normal.
If the filament burns out, then the broken capacitor is to blame (1. Failure of the power capacitor (capacity is usually 47 nF). One of the lamp leads is connected through it). If you replace it and put a resistance of 10 ohms on the terminals of a burned-out filament, the lamp will last for a very long time (do not disconnect the terminals of the filament from the board). If the capacitor is not replaced, the lamp will last 5-10 minutes. (then a loud explosion of the capacitor and transistor).
Thanks for the useful information, I have not come across this yet.
The transformer failed on several lamps. Due to overheating, the insulation became unusable and the awl through the ferrite. It is treated by rewinding a wire with a close cross-section with normal insulation.
PS. The lamps were DeLux.
Yuri. Interestingly, this is already quite exotic. Never even heard of such a problem in these lamps.
If I get caught, I'll take a photo or even a video of the breakdown. Sincerely.
I met a woman-grandmother, she sells light bulbs in the market, buyers regularly bring burnt ones as an example and leave them with the saleswoman, she then throws them away, I asked if it was possible to buy such damaged energy savings from her for 5 rubles, but she said - nonsense, they I don’t need them, I throw them away and get them for free, so I’ll give them to you too for free, for a year I have accumulated three full bags of different powers and firms of such light bulbs, repaired a few, until my hands reach others, .. I think if you come up with a small high-voltage electronic device Tesla coil type (so that the field spreads within this bulb) in the field of which gas glows in energy-saving bulbs, you can organize lighting without the help of filaments in bulbs! ...
I also like LED bulbs, but they are still a little expensive ...
Alexander
Interesting idea. You just need to figure out what is happening with the gas inside the flasks.
FOR THE BEGINNING, THE TESL TRANSFORMER AND ELECTRONICS ENERGY SAVINGS AND THE STARTER CONTROL DEVICE OF SOVIET TIME LIGHT LAMPS ARE COMMON TO THEM - THEY ALL HAVE A GLOW OF THE PHOSPHOROPHER, GAS IN THE FLASKS, DUE TO THE HIGH VOLTAGE, I THINK IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE EXTERNAL ELECTRODES BY LOCATION NEAR THE FLASK AND SENDING A HIGH CURRENT INTO THEM VOLTAGE AND MODERATELY HIGH FREQUENCY ... AND FURTHER NEED TO THINK AND EXPERIMENT)))
"E-27 energy-saving lamp, filaments are working. When the lamp is turned on, it burns at half heat. What is the reason that needs to be replaced in the circuit?
I would check the thermistor first. Try how it will work if you just unsolder it.
Is it possible to start the Soviet 80w with a handkerchief from a 20w bulb (increasing the power of transistors and picking up other elements) beard throttles and starters destroy the lamp faster.
Unfortunately, I did not come across Soviet ones, so I can’t answer this question.
Dear Dummy Luck! Why did they stop making videos? Your videos are one of the most interesting and informative, because you take on everything according to your mind, and not just according to a well-established scheme. Slowly, surely and clearly, explaining each step, for me - this is the most correct approach.
I can say this about light bulbs, for me personally, filaments burn out until not a single electronics burns out (only what I myself burned for experimental purposes). One thread fails.
Answering BobrOff, I can say that it is very difficult to choose a resistor for a burnt filament, because when heated, the filament has a completely different resistance. And it’s not from the capacitor that the filament burns out, because if you change it to another bulb, the lamp lasts for a very long time. It burns out, most likely from quality and plus, practically, they stopped installing thermistors.
I myself encountered this problem, soldered the entire board - the whole problem turned out to be in the conder between the filament.
Thank you. Now a snag with time, but I think I will continue soon.
Hello everyone, after seeing enough advice, I also decided to bring the burned-out CFL back to life by soldering a resistor in parallel to the burnt thread ... Not a single lamp has lived for more than a week. This time, in principle, is enough to go to the store for a new lamp. But after reading quite a few forums, I saw in the form of bypassing both threads at once with an ordinary wire. I tried it and, surprisingly, the lamp in my corridor has been shining for about three months. This method is suitable if the thread is broken on only one side, and if the thread is broken completely and only two whiskers stick out in the flask, then after such or similar repair, the lamp will work for 3-5 days at most until the electrodes burn out ... If on a new lamp, shunt the filaments with a jumper, then such a lamp will last much longer than in the usual version. I draw your attention to the fact that the lamp after this WILL NOT BE ETERNAL!!! As many promise.
The principle of ignition of a CFL lamp is something like this:
After switching on, the resistance of an unlit lamp is high and a high-voltage capacitor is connected in series with the inductor through the filaments of the lamp. As a result of resonance, the voltage at the output of the converter rises sharply, the lamp lights up and its resistance decreases sharply, thereby shunting the high-voltage capacitor. The resonance disappears, the voltage drops to 350 volts, which is quite enough for the lamp to burn steadily. It is noticeable so, you can read more in the same Wikipedia ....
So, when we put two jumpers, we connect this capacitor in parallel with the lamp and all processes occur in the same way as a regular switch-on. When the lamp is started, the resistance of an unlit lamp is high and the capacitor is connected in series with the inductor. There is a resonance, the voltage rises, the lamp lights up and its resistance decreases, which shunts the capacitor .... Etc. ....
I made a short video, but since I don’t have a tripod and there’s no one to hold the camera, I took a photo and then edited it in a video editor, but I shot the work of the lamp myself and also added it to the review ...
I heard a lot of complaints from sofa specialists in the field of electronic design about the imperfection and inexpediency of this resuscitation of lamps...
I do not pretend to anything and do not promise that the lamp will become ETERNAL - this upgrade option simply extends for some time (a week - a month - a year - ...) the service life of an already burned-out lamp that has already worked out its own and had to be disposed of.
And do not forget about safety measures, you can get under the influence of electric current and get an electrical injury!!!
All work on reworking the CFL lamp must be done with a 100 W incandescent lamp included in the break in the mains wire. This will save you from a loud BOOM and knocked out traffic jams in case of an error ...
There is a 7W fluorescent energy-saving lamp (almost the same as in the video).
It seems to be working, but not correctly. (incorrect operation was tested on 2 cartridges, so cartridge failure can be ruled out)
During operation, it burns normally for 5 seconds, then for 1 second the brightness decreases slightly (by 20-30%), and so on in a circle (i.e. 5-1-5-1-5-1-5-1).
At the same time, the lamp is VERY hot (after 10 minutes of operation, a strong smell of plastic).
Before the malfunction, the lamp worked normally ~ 6500 hours (it shone well and almost did not heat up)
Are there any ideas how to fix this?
I would first try to solder the thermistor and see how the lamp behaves.
"In the future, it makes sense to consider the possibility of igniting the lamp with a high-voltage field - in general, with burnt filaments"
You don’t forget to think with your head about the expediency of any "collective farming" - it is often cheaper to buy a new flask than to sculpt a voltage quadrupler from expensive high-voltage capacitors for a cold start without filaments ...
And even more so it concerns the ideas of gas ionization in the flask by an external EM field - this will bury all the economy of the "housekeepers" - the efficiency of such lamps is low.
35W energy saving lamp. The luminophor has darkened, is badly worn out. The filaments of the lamp are intact - perhaps due to the diodes standing in parallel. Malfunction - breakdown of one MJE13003 transistor, probably due to overheating.
Transistors are replaced with MJE13007 in TO220 packages, which have more power and better heat dissipation.
A 30 ohm NTC thermistor is installed in series with the filaments. Why this is needed is described in a separate article on the modernization of energy-saving light bulbs.
Ventilation holes are drilled in the lamp base for a softer temperature regime of electronic ballasts.
A few more photos:
Broken lamp.
The lamp has transistors in TO92 packages, which is rather unusual for a power of 20W.
Ventilation openings in the plinth.
To facilitate the thermal operation of electronic ballasts, ventilation holes are drilled.
Converted lamp. The arrow shows the installed thermistor.
The thermistor is installed in the break of the lamp filament circuit in a convenient place, which depends on the design of the particular lamp. The resistance of the thermistor shown in the photo is 30 ohms. When the lamp is turned on, the thermistor is cold and its resistance limits the current flowing through this circuit. After a few seconds, the thermistor heats up and its resistance decreases, no longer affecting the current in the circuit. Thus, a more gentle lamp ignition mode is provided.
Note that bulb filament leads may be brittle. Disconnect them from the electronic ballast and clean carefully before tinning.
Vitaliy's upgrade tips:
The power of this lamp is 26 watts. I want to draw your attention to the features of this circuit - these are two 10 ohm and two 2.2 ohm resistances, which are very important in this circuit. A capacitance of 47 microfarads 400 volts is also very important! The most important thing is that the startup capacitors are 6800 nF 630 volts two - connect in series (GREEN). All ballast circuits are basically the same, in any circuits find two pairs of identical resistors, I indicated 10 and 2.2 ohms on the diagram - change to these values, the lamps undergo such an upgrade - 13-32 watts 220 volts. Do not forget to put diodes to transistors to E and K, on the contrary, to the current, as in the line scan of any TV. The temperature inside the circuit reached up to 80 degrees Celsius, the lamp has been working for me for about 4 years. I'm not kidding! I recently looked at my circuit - I will say one thing - because of the temperature, all parts are black and have been working for 4 years. An example of an error - out of 100 pieces, 10 lamps are unusable, the reason is depressurization of the bulb (glass), air ingress. Try it, experiment - the result is good.
U.P. 15.10.2012
Another broken lamp (23W), and previously upgraded. The filaments are intact, which means the NTC thermistor protected them throughout the entire time the lamp was on. One rectifier diode burned out and one transistor in the open. Several tracks burned out.
The tracks were replaced with wires, the diode was replaced with a new one (1N4007).
Transistors HLB123T are replaced by HLB124E. In the photo above, new transistors are already installed in the lamp, the old ones are nearby.
The transistor housing and pinout are different, this must be taken into account when making such replacements.
After the repair, the lamp worked again.
U.P. 4.2.2013
After the repair, the lamp worked for 4 months and broke again with pop and smoke. The fault turned out to be similar - several rectifier diodes were broken, the input resistor burned out the track and another resistor in the emitter of the transistor. It looks like an increased current when turned on, which led to suspicions on the electrolytic capacitor after the rectifier, although it is working according to the device. The transistors were not damaged, the lamp filaments were intact, so it was decided to repair it. Replaced diodes, resistors, burnt track restored. Just in case, the electrolytic capacitor was replaced.
In the photo next to the lamp are replaced parts. After repair, the lamp lit up.
The following photo shows the lamp before assembly. The 33 Ohm NTC thermistor is clearly visible, designed to save cold filaments from current surges when turned on.
Do you want to read more about the schemes with your own hands? Here's what's trending this week:
Regulated power supply from an ATX computer power supply
Power supply for a cordless screwdriver from a 220 volt network
Schemes and printed circuit boards of power supplies based on UC3842 and UC3843 chips
Leopold approves.
Have questions, comments? Write:
Drilling holes is not just necessary, but necessary, because. the ballast is heated by the hot bulb.
Dear experts! Recently, the question arose: what kind of beast is a ring with 3 windings and what does it affect? Sozhete is a primitive. Be right. But if you carefully look at the circuit of the computer power supply, we will see the similarity in the circuits of the final stage, only the matching phase shifter is wound on a w-shaped transformer. Hm. Who has any ideas? Yep, what do we need? We need to get high-slope rectangular pulses and a cooling pad for the key, such as a delay. And what? So this ring is designed to increase the steepness due to the impulse in the magnetic circuit and generates a delay when the core is saturated. Someone spoke about the frequency... So the generation frequency depends on this trance too. If everything is correct - you do not need to drill holes - the keys will be cold. The manufacturer is not a stupid shoemaker! And one more thing: the greater the load - the lamp current, the higher the oscillation frequency. It's so on the way. Do not try to regulate the frequency with capacitors, it depends on the load, and the load is the inductor and the lamp itself, and of course the parameters of the transformer. When you understand how this ring with 3 windings works, the world will become easier! All dashing improvements! And remember: manufacturers are not worse than radio amateurs, this is an axiom.
Now answer a couple of questions:
1. How long will the converted lamp work?
2. Will the ballast survive after the electrodes evaporate?
3. Does the 1N4007 work well at ballast frequency?
Attention! The most important comment! Be sure to read! Any lamp is reanimated!
We bring the board to working condition (you can strengthen the transistors and add a self-healing fuse), add a diode bridge at the output (from 1n40007 - it will work) - all the lamps light up (even with burnt out spirals). Spiral contacts can be twisted in pairs.
In this method, electron emission is not needed to light the lamps: the constant accelerates the gas ions by itself.
Only some schemes require a selection of ballast (placed in front of the bridge).
Today, manufacturers of lamps with energy-saving parameters leave no choice at all to ordinary consumers who choose between incandescent lamps and ESL. The choice in favor of the latter is obvious. Now there are almost no apartments or houses left, wherever energy-saving lamps were installed. And that's not to mention office or industrial premises. ESL can save up to ninety percent of electricity per year. Many of us are interested in the question - is it possible to repair energy-saving lamps with our own hands.
Repair of energy-saving lamps or how to assemble one lamp from two
In most cases, manufacturers indicate 8000 hours of continuous operation in terms of operation. But practice shows that most often light bulbs do not produce the specified period. And this becomes a rather unpleasant surprise, since they are not cheap.
But this shouldn't be a huge disappointment, as energy-saving light bulbs turn out to be pretty easy to fix. It is not necessary, because from several non-working ones you can make one working one.
Is it worth starting a renovation?
First you need to find out whether it is worth it to start repairing a burned-out light bulb and whether it will be justified. Many experts say that it all depends on how many lamps you want to fix. If we are talking about one light bulb, then it is better not to take it at all. The only exception is when you have several non-working light bulbs, which will become the basis for one working one.
Such a light bulb, like any other, should also be distinguished by the period of work. If your lamp stopped shining after a year and a half, and its life is 10,000 hours, then it may be cheaper. After all, you have to spend money on spare parts, travel, and also lose your own time.
After prolonged use, ESLs lose their ability to turn on quickly. They work a couple of seconds after switching on. You also need to consider that old light bulbs eventually begin to produce more heat than light. Another significant drawback of old light bulbs is the wear of the fluorescent bulb, which dims over time and the lamp becomes not as bright as it was.
To summarize all of the above, you should start repairing light bulbs only when you have a few non-working ones on hand. Practice confirms that approximately 5 lamps can be made out of twenty. If you still decide, then ask your friends or relatives - they will surely help you with old light bulbs.
How to assemble one lamp from two
To understand what and how to repair, first let's dwell on what it is made of. Any gas-discharge fluorescent lamp consists of three parts:
- flasks;
- electronic board (ballast);
- plinth.
If defects appear on the bulb of your idle lamp (in the form of cracks, for example), then it can no longer be repaired. In other cases, having the desire and skills, you can fix it.
Most often, the lamps stop working due to the fact that the filaments burn out or as a result of a breakdown of the electronic board. Before repairing, the lamp must be disassembled and the cause of the breakdown must be identified. To do this, you need to take some steps.
The first step is to disconnect the base from the burnt bulb. As mounts, the same ones are installed as in the cases of mobile phones or remote controls. Therefore, be extremely careful. The best tool here will be a screwdriver with a wide and thin end. Your main task is not to break the base completely.
The connecting wires are usually short, so do not disconnect them too abruptly. In most cases, the first latch is the one located under the inscriptions with the characteristics of the light bulb. In this place it is necessary to insert a screwdriver and gradually turn it. After that, the lamp should decompose into two parts.
The second stage will be the process of disconnecting the wires from the filaments. There are two pairs of conductors in the flask - they are the filaments. If you do not disable them, you will not be able to determine the health. It shouldn't be too hard for you to detach them, since in most cases they are not soldered, but simply wound on top.
The third stage of disassembly and testing will be the diagnosis of filaments. To do this, you need to ring two threads. This will allow you to understand which one is out of order. In most cases, the lamp consists of two spirals, which have a resistance of 10 to 15 ohms. Based on the results of the call, you can find the cause of the breakdown. There are two options here:
- damaged ballast;
- one of the filaments burned out (a lamp with a damaged coil).
Depending on the type of damage, you have to perform various manipulations. Let's consider both of these options.
Repair of system components
Restoring a lamp after a failure of the electronic ballast involves identifying all burned-out elements, as well as those that are still usable. After disassembling the light bulb, inspect the board for visible external defects from all sides. Also inspect each of its components. If during the inspection you did not find any visible defects, then proceed to testing its main modules, namely:
- limiting resistor;
- diode bridge;
- filter capacitor;
- high voltage capacitor.
The fuse is installed in the light bulb by soldering to the contact on the base. It is already attached in a heat-shrinkable material. Most often, he suffers after a short circuit, after which the entire circuit breaks. When the fuse rings, a resistance of 10 ohms is considered normal, and infinity is considered abnormal. Note that when cutting wires after a fuse has blown, do it as close to the fuse as possible. This will give you a spare wire to solder a new resistor.
The main function of the diode bridge is to rectify the voltage of 220 V. It is based on four diodes. You can call them on the spot, it does not require soldering them.
The filter capacitor breaks first of all in lamps that are made in China. It serves to rectify the voltage. The burnout of this element is initially accompanied by unstable operation of an energy-saving light bulb - it makes extraneous sounds, does not turn on immediately, and so on. After failure, you may notice external defects: swelling, darkening, streaks, and so on.
The high-voltage capacitor is designed to create a pulse, which, in turn, creates a discharge in the bulb itself. The failure of this particular element is the cause of most breakdowns of energy-saving lamps. You will be able to determine the malfunction without calling. The lamp will not light up, and the filaments will create a glow near the electrodes.
When you check the main modules of the board, move on to the additional ones: transistors, resistors and diodes. It should be noted that with soldered transistors, you will get incorrect multimeter readings, so they must first be desoldered. Also note that one detected failure does not exclude the possibility of another, so you will have to check all the elements.
But there is a method that will allow you to avoid soldering transistors. You just need to measure the resistance of the elements on the working board and compare them with the non-working ones.
Spiral repair
Often, light bulbs stop working for other reasons - failure of filaments or circuits. A hint here will be a darkening in the place of the burnt spiral. To check, measure their resistance. If one of the threads burns out, the correct solution is to get rid of the bulb. Moreover, the board can later be used to repair other ESLs. But economical users were able to find a way out here as well. You just need to short-circuit the terminals of the burned-out coil.
Do not count on the fact that in this way you can again enjoy thousands of hours of operation of the corrected lamp. On one serviceable spiral, the lamp will not live much. Here's what needs to be done.
First of all, disconnect the spirals and determine the performance of each of them (read above how to do this). Using a multimeter, you can find a non-working thread (it will also show traces of burnout). If the second thread is working, you just have to shunt the non-working resistor with the same rating as the working one. This step is mandatory as a circuit without shunting will not work.
That's all. As you can see, repairing energy-saving lamps at home is not easy, but possible. If you yourself have encountered the restoration of such light bulbs, share your comments under this article.
Economical lighting products are known for their durability, but due to improper handling, their life can be significantly reduced. We propose to consider how to repair an energy-saving lamp with your own hands, and how to fix a lamp with a burned-out spiral.
Types of faults
Before you start repairing the light bulb, you need to decide on the type of breakdown. There are several types of faults:
- factory;
- Operational.
The first are breakdowns that occur due to the dishonesty of manufacturers. These include divergence of contacts, irregular base shape, etc. In this case, operational malfunctions are those that arise in connection with the use of a light source. This is the usual burnout of the spiral, violation of the integrity of the bulb, rupture of wires, etc.
How to fix a lamp
To repair an energy-saving lamp, you need to find out the type of breakdown. Next, study the design of the lamp. An energy-saving lamp consists of a special bulb and a circuit that is responsible for the appearance of light, or power wires. You can disassemble the lamp at home if you have a thin knife or screwdriver. By separating the components, you can study the design in more detail.
We disassemble the lamp with a knife
Please note that not all energy-saving lamps can be repaired on their own or even disassembled. For example, luminescent ones contain harmful gases and compounds in the flask that can cause poisoning. Mercury lamps are quite dangerous. If you have a broken lamp of this type, then in no case start repair or disposal without specialists.
Video: How to fix an energy-saving light bulb with your own hands
And another interesting video:
First, consider what to do if the electric lamp burned out. The lamp burns out due to two reasons:
- Burnt out filament coil;
- The ballast circuit flew out.
You can determine them only when parsing an electronic device. You need to pick up an energy-saving lamp, on the bottom of the bulb you will see a small depression. In the photo, this place is indicated by arrows. Carefully, so as not to damage the case, insert a thin but or a screwdriver there, and slightly lift the case. It is very important that the flask does not burst, otherwise there will be no point in repairing.
Before you is a disassembled lamp, in which the wires are connected by simple rewinding, without soldering and other thermal fastening methods. Inside the device, you can see a rounded board, which has darkened a little due to overloads. Along its edges are several bayonets, square in shape, they act as a kind of terminals. Power wires are connected to these terminals, through which electric current is supplied. The wires are wound to the bayonets; when reconnecting, in no case do not solder them even with a dot method.
After you have untwisted the wires, you need to check each spiral with a multimeter. Thus, it turns out which of them burned down. After ringing and finding out the type of breakdown, the burned-out spiral is replaced with a new one.
If you want to check the health of the electronic ballast, then you must definitely study its design. The schematic diagram of this lamp part is very similar to the standard one. The main elements are a capacitor, a resistor and a dinistor. To protect the circuit from burning, rectifier diodes are needed, as well as resistors. When the lamp is connected to the circuit, the resistor charges the capacitor. When the part is normally charged, the dinistor turns on and generates a pulse, which in turn turns on the transistor. After this cycle, the capacitor discharges again and the rectifier diode begins to shunt the network. Next, the transistors start the lamp generator and the transformer.
C6 is a power capacitor that passes electric current through itself to the incandescent wire. In this case, the current is also filtered on the capacitor and tested for inductance. The power with which the lamp burns is determined using a resonant capacitor. The frequency of the circuit during the operation of this part is somewhat reduced, because. the power capacitor has a much larger capacitance. During the operation of the parts, the transistor is in the open state, and the transformer core is saturated. When it is fully charged, the reverse process occurs, and so an infinite number of cycles.
After that, the starter contacts heat up due to the fact that they receive a certain discharge of gas. The contacts are closed, and electricity is supplied to the glowing wires. For energy-saving lamps, they can heat up to 700 degrees Celsius or more. When the starter contacts cool down, the choke sends an extra strong voltage signal to the electrodes. After that, the gas that is inside the lighting device is ignited.
This principle diagram of the operation of the ballast unit is used in such models as Navigator (Navigator), Maxus (Maxus of the ESL series), Cosmos, Sputnik, Svetozar and others.
In a fluorescent lamp, the electronic ballast looks like this:
Repair of this part is in most cases necessary if any of the parts of the circuit could not withstand the voltage or surge, and burned out. In place of the burnt part, you need to install a new one, but this is not always advisable. Often the malfunctions are quite serious, and the entire unit will need to be replaced, it is much easier to buy a new energy-saving lamp to replace a burned-out one than to repair the old one yourself.
In imported lamps such as "Comtech", "Galeon", "Lezard", "Philips", "Camelion" and others, high-voltage transistors often burn out. These devices are necessary for the normal power supply of the filament, and if burned, they can damage the entire board. To replace them, see the table:
If the energy-saving lamp blinks, then most likely it is a failure during the connection of the contacts. This failure can be attributed to the factory if the device began to fail immediately after purchase. To fix the problem, you need to carefully disassemble the lighting fixture again. Consider an example of a repair on a lamp with an E27 base.
Corrosion processes often occur at these points, in order to repair an energy-saving lamp with such a base with your own hands, clean it from rust. This must be done carefully, using abrasive paper. In the same places, we check the tightness of the connection of the contacts, twist them a little and check the device with a multimeter. The resistance must be within ten ohms; in the event of a malfunction, a break will occur.
If you can’t fix the board yourself, then try using a choke circuit. In this case, the threads will be parallel to each other. If the toggle switch closes, the voltage begins to flow to the contact wire of the lamps, and then to the starter, passing through the throttle. Below is a diagram of such a connection. It can be implemented in lamps "Era" ("Era"), "SPIRAL-econom", "Vito", "Nakai".
Although, according to the manufacturer, the service life of energy-saving lamps is simply enormous. I bought myself a lamp, gave the money and rejoice. It shines for you and saves energy!
And since energy-saving lamps are not cheap, and once a month to buy a lamp for 5 - 8 greens, it seemed wasteful to me. What could be the savings here? It even gets more expensive.
As usual, I got on the Internet, and there it turns out that “our” people have been repairing such lamps for a long time. And successfully. So I decided to try it myself.
We disassemble the energy-saving lamp
The lamp that I started to disassemble broke the bottom of the cartridge, so be careful if you half any energy-saving lamp. But this is not a problem - we can fix it.
When the lamp has already been repaired and assembled, put the torn part back in place, and solder the cracks with a soldering iron. You can stick - to whom it is convenient.
It is best to half an energy-saving lamp with the working part of a screwdriver. Inside the cartridge there are special latches that will need to be snapped off. If you've ever disassembled a remote control or a cell phone, it's a similar procedure.
Only here you do this: insert the working part of the screwdriver between the two halves, and turn the screwdriver to the right or left. When the slot increases, you can insert another screwdriver into it, and first step back a little, insert it into the slot and turn it again. Here the most important thing, as in the remote control, is to snap off the first latch.
When you have two halves in your hands, move them apart carefully. There is no need to rush here, you can tear off the wires.
In front of you will be an electronic unit board, which is connected with the base in one part, and with the lamp bulb in the other. The electronic unit board itself is an ordinary ballast, which is usually installed in old fluorescent lights. Only here is electronics, and there is a throttle and a starter.
Determine the degree of damage to the lamp
First of all, we inspect the board on both sides and visually determine which of the parts are clearly damaged and must be replaced.
There were no visible violations from the side of the radio components, but from the side of the tracks where the SMD components are located, two resistors R1 and R4 are visible, which definitely need to be changed.
Here, on the right side of the resistor R1, a piece of the track burned out. This may indicate that at the moment the lamp was turned on or during its operation, the circuit element failed, which caused a short circuit in the circuit.
The first inspection was not very encouraging. If resistors and tracks are burning, then this indicates that the circuit worked in heavy mode, and we will not get off with replacing only these resistors.
We determine the faulty elements on the board of the ballast
Fuse.
First of all, check the fuse. Finding it is easy. At one end it is soldered to the central contact of the lamp base, and at the other end to the board. A tube of insulating material is put on it. Usually, with such a malfunction, the fuses do not survive.
But as it turned out, this is not a fuse, but a half-watt resistor with a resistance of about 10 ohms, and it was burned out (in a break).
The health of the resistor is easily determined.
Transfer the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode to the limit of "continuity" or "200" and measure. If the fuse resistor is intact, then the device will show a resistance of about 10 ohms, but if it shows infinity (one), then it is open.
Here, put one multimeter probe to the central contact of the base, and the second to the place on the board where the output of the fuse resistor is soldered.
One more moment. If the fuse resistor is blown, then when you bite it, try to bite off closer to the resistor body, as shown on the right side of the upper figure. Then, to the conclusion remaining in the base, we will solder a new resistor.
Flask (lamp).
Next, check the resistance of the bulb filaments. It is advisable to solder one pin on each side. The resistance of the threads should be the same, and if different, then one of them burned out. Which is not very good.
In such cases, experts advise to solder a resistor in parallel with the burnt spiral with the same resistance as the second spiral. But in my case, both spirals turned out to be intact, and their resistance was 11 ohms.
The next step is to check for serviceability all semiconductors - these are transistors, diodes and a zener diode.
As a rule, semiconductors do not like working with overload and short circuits, so we check them carefully.
diodes and zener diode.
Diodes and a zener diode do not need to be soldered, they already ring perfectly right on the board.
The direct resistance of the p-n junction of the diodes will be within 750 ohms, and the reverse should be infinity. All my diodes turned out to be intact, which made me a little happy.
The zener diode is two-anode, therefore, in both directions it should show resistance equal to infinity (one).
If you have some diodes turned out to be faulty, then they must be purchased at a radio components store. 1N4007 are used here. But I could not determine the value of the zener diode, but I think that you can set any with a suitable stabilization voltage.
Transistors.
Transistors, and there are two of them, will have to be soldered, since their base-emitter p-n junctions are shunted by the low-resistance winding of the transformer.
One transistor rang both to the right and to the left, but the second one was allegedly intact, but between the collector and emitter, in one direction, it showed a resistance of about 745 ohms. But I did not attach any importance to this, and considered it to be faulty, since it was the first time I dealt with transistors like 13003.
I could not find transistors of this type, in the TO-92 package, I had to buy a larger size, in the TO-126 package.
Resistors and capacitors.
They also need to be checked for correctness. But what if.
I still had one SMD resistor, the value of which was not visible, especially since I did not know the circuit diagram of this ballast. But there was another such working energy-saving lamp, and it came to my rescue. It shows that the value of the resistor R6 is 1.5 ohms.
To finally make sure that all possible faults were found, I called all the elements on the working board and compared their resistances to the faulty one. And he didn't boil anything.
As a result, the price turned out not at all expensive:
1. Transistors 13003 - 2 pcs. 10 rubles each (in the TO-126 case - I took 10 pieces);
2. SMD resistors - 1.5 Ohm and 510 kOhm, 1 ruble each (I took 10 pieces);
3. 10 Ohm resistor - 3 rubles apiece (took 10 pieces);
4. Diodes 1N4007 - 5 rubles apiece (I took 10 pieces just in case);
5. Heat shrink - 15 rubles.
Assembly
Here a surprise awaited me. But about this in order.
First of all, we solder the burnt ones, and then we solder the new SMD resistors. Here, it is difficult to advise anything, because he himself did not really learn how to solder them.
I do this: I heat both sides with a soldering iron at the same time, while trying to move the resistor from its place with a screwdriver or a soldering iron tip. If possible, then I heat from the side of the resistor and squeeze it out with a sting, and if not, then I heat the upper part and move it with a screwdriver. Just do it carefully and quickly so that the conductors do not peel off the board.
The photo shows that the resistor warms up from the side.
Soldering SMD resistors is much easier!
If solder remains on the contact pads, and it interferes with the installation of the resistor, then we remove it.
This is done simply: hold the board at an angle with the tracks down, and bring the corner of the tip of the sting to the contact pad. Remove excess solder from the tip first.
When the pad warms up, you will see how the solder flows to the soldering iron. Again, this must be done quickly and carefully.
Put the resistor in place, align it and press it with a screwdriver, and now solder each side in turn.
Now we solder the faulty ones and solder the new transistors. I didn’t find any transistors in the right case, and these are a little big, but the pinout matches. Which is no longer bad.
Here we bite off the conclusions, approximately, as in the picture below.
Solder the defective one and solder the new one in the same way. One transistor will stand to you "in front", and the second "back". In the picture below, the transistor is "backward".
And the last step is to solder the fuse-resistor.
Bite off the output with a length, as on a faulty one. Solder to the output sticking out of the base, put on heat shrink, and only after that, solder the free output of the resistor to the board in place.
All is ready. But we haven't fully assembled the lamp yet. You need to make sure it works.
Once again, we carefully examine the places where the soldering was carried out and whether the circuit elements are installed correctly. You can't be wrong here. Otherwise, the entire repair process will have to start over.
We supply power to the lamp. And here's where I hit. The transistor blew, and from the same side where the faulty one rang both to the right and to the left. There could be no errors in the installation - I checked it several times.
After the clap, I lost the transistor and the resistor R6 with a nominal value of 15 ohms. Everything else was intact.
Again, I disassemble the working lamp, and compare the resistance of all elements. Everything is okay. And then I remembered the transistor, which was half serviceable.
When such a transistor dropped out from a working lamp and rang, it turned out that between the collector and emitter it also shows the presence of resistance of about 745 ohms in one direction. Then it became clear that this is not a simple transistor. Useful to google on the Internet.
And here on one Chinese site (the link has been deleted, since the site no longer works) I find about transistors of the 13003 series. It turns out that they are simple, composite, with a diode inside, and differ only in the last 2 - 3 letters printed on the case. In this ballast there were composite transistors with a diode inside.
As it turned out, the “faulty” transistor, in which the collector and emitter were called in one direction, was “live”. And when you have to change transistors, first determine by the last letters whether it is simple or compound.
I solder a new transistor, and put a diode between the collector and emitter according to the above diagram: cathode to the collector, and anode to the emitter.
Instead of an SMD resistor, I put an ordinary 15 Ohm resistor, since I didn’t have an esemdash with such a value.
I am feeding again. As you can see, the lamp is on.
That's all.
Now, when you repair energy-saving lamps, I hope my experience will be useful to you.
Good luck!
According to sesaga.ru
Also Interesting
When visiting the sites of foreign home-made people, I noticed that the so-called life hacking. Literally, it translates as "hacking life." Do not think anything bad, life hacking has nothing to do with computer hacking! They just call it useful tips that help people use seemingly completely unnecessary things - empty cans, PET bottles, burnt out light bulbs, broken household appliances. They are not thrown away, but simply change their role or go to spare parts for other useful devices. I would like to suggest something similar.
Energy saving lamps are gaining popularity. The European Union generally already prohibits the production of conventional incandescent lamps. But unfortunately, energy-saving lamps also sometimes fail. They can, of course, be thrown away and forgotten. And you can subject it to the hacking procedure. So, we disassemble the burnt out energy-saving lamp. Because, as a rule, only the filaments in the bulb itself burn out, and the electronic components in the lamp base are operable with a probability of 99.9%.
To see what color the insides of an energy-saving lamp have, it must be opened. In order not to injure your hands on glass tubes (they are made of thin glass and can burst at any moment), we wrap the flask with a plastic bag and grab it with tape. The place of gluing the case is obvious and we are trying to separate its parts with a screwdriver or a powerful knife. If you do this carefully, we will spend 2 minutes.
When the energy-saving lamp breaks into three parts, the following picture will open to us:
As you can see, the main parts are a bulb, a board with electronic elements (radio components) and a lamp base. Now let's figure out what and how we can apply.
Bulb of an energy-saving lamp. To be honest, I haven't figured out what to do with it yet. The flask is a sealed glass shell coated from the inside with a phosphor. It is unlikely that it will be possible to open it painlessly. And to use it as some kind of float is unreliable - glass is all the same.
Plinth. This subject is already more attractive. It can be given a second life. After all, this is actually a small case, with a contact that can be screwed into any standard E27 or E14 cartridge.
The simplest application is that you can make an extension cord from this base (low power, of course). Only it will be possible to turn it on not in an outlet, but in any cartridge. Perhaps the oldest generation remembers such devices. For some reason they were called "swindlers". Such a kind of adapter "lamp-socket". By the way, it can be very useful in our time. Especially when traveling abroad. Since the socket design system can be original and original in the country, and it is not always possible to purchase or pick up an adapter for it, but you need to charge a mobile phone, laptop, navigator, camera.
Modern fluorescent light bulbs are a real find for economical consumers. They shine brightly, last longer than incandescent bulbs and consume much less energy. At first glance, there are only pluses. However, due to the imperfection of domestic power grids, they exhaust their resource much earlier than the deadlines announced by the manufacturers. And often they do not even have time to "cover" the cost of their acquisition.
But do not rush to throw out the failed "housekeeper". Given the considerable initial cost of fluorescent light bulbs, it is advisable to “squeeze” the maximum out of them, using all their possible resources to the last. Indeed, right under the spiral, a compact high-frequency converter circuit is installed in it. For a knowledgeable person, this is a whole “Klondike” of various spare parts.
Disassembled lamp
General information
Battery
In fact, such a circuit is an almost ready-made switching power supply. It lacks only an isolation transformer with a rectifier. Therefore, if the flask is intact, you can, without fear of mercury fumes, try to disassemble the case.
By the way, it is the lighting elements of light bulbs that most often fail: due to resource burnout, merciless operation, too low (or high) temperatures, etc. The internal boards are more or less protected by a hermetically sealed case and parts with a margin of safety.
We advise you to save up a certain number of lamps before starting repair and restoration work (you can ask around at work or with friends - usually there is enough of this stuff everywhere). After all, it is not a fact that all of them will be maintainable. In this case, it is the performance of the ballast (that is, the board built inside the light bulb) that is important to us.
You may have to dig a little for the first time, but then in an hour you will be able to assemble a primitive power supply for devices that are suitable in terms of power.
If you plan to create a power supply, choose models of fluorescent lamps more powerful, starting from 20 watts. However, less bright light bulbs will also be used - they can be used as donors of the necessary details.
And as a result, from a couple of burned-out housekeepers, it is quite possible to create one completely capable model, whether it be a work light, a power supply or a battery charger.
Most often, self-taught masters use housekeeper ballast to create 12-watt power supplies. They can be connected to modern LED systems, because 12 V is the operating voltage of most of the most common household appliances, including lighting.
Such blocks are usually hidden in furniture, so the appearance of the node does not really matter. And even if outwardly the craft turns out to be sloppy - it's okay, the main thing is to take care of maximum electrical safety. To do this, carefully check the created system for operability, leaving it to work in test mode for a long time. If power surges and overheating are not observed, then you did everything right.
It is clear that you will not extend the life of an updated light bulb much - anyway, sooner or later the resource is exhausted (the phosphor and the filament burn out). But you must admit, why not try to restore the failed lamp within six months or a year after purchase.
We disassemble the lamp
So, we take a non-working light bulb, we find the junction of the glass bulb with the plastic case. Gently pry the halves with a screwdriver, gradually moving along the "belt". Usually these two elements are connected by plastic latches, and if you are going to use both components in some other way, do not put much effort - a piece of plastic can easily break off, and the tightness of the light bulb body will be broken.
After opening the case, carefully disconnect the contacts going from the ballast to the filaments in the bulb, because. they block full access to the board. Often they are simply tied to the pins, and if you do not plan to use the failed bulb anymore, you can safely cut off the connecting wires. As a result, you should see something like this scheme.
Lamp disassembly
It is clear that the designs of lamps from different manufacturers may differ in "stuffing". But the general scheme and the basic constituent elements have much in common.
Then you need to scrupulously inspect each part for blisters, breakdowns, make sure that all elements are soldered securely. If any of the parts burned out, it will be immediately visible by the characteristic soot on the board. In cases where no visible defects are found, but the lamp is not working, use the tester and “ring out” all the elements of the circuit.
As practice shows, resistors, capacitors, dinistors most often suffer due to large voltage drops that occur with unenviable regularity in domestic networks. In addition, frequent flicking of the switch has an extremely negative effect on the duration of the operation of fluorescent bulbs.
Therefore, in order to extend their operating time as long as possible, try to turn them on and off as little as possible. The pennies saved on electricity will eventually result in hundreds of rubles to replace a burnt-out light bulb ahead of time. .
Disassembled lamps
If, as a result of the initial inspection, you have identified burn marks on the board, swelling of parts, try replacing the failed blocks by taking them from other non-working donor bulbs. After installing the parts, once again “ring” all the components of the board with the tester.
By and large, from the ballast of a non-working fluorescent light bulb, you can make a switching power supply with a power corresponding to the original power of the lamp. As a rule, low-power power supplies do not require significant modifications. But over blocks of greater power, of course, you have to sweat.
To do this, it will be necessary to slightly expand the capabilities of the native choke by providing it with an additional winding. You can adjust the power of the created power supply by increasing the number of secondary turns on the inductor. Do you want to know how to do it?
Preparatory work
As an example, below is a diagram of a Vitoone fluorescent light bulb, but in principle the composition of boards from different manufacturers does not differ much. In this case, a light bulb of sufficient power is presented - 25 watts, it can make an excellent 12 V charging unit.
Vitoone 25W lamp circuit
Power supply assembly
The red color in the diagram indicates the lighting unit (i.e., the bulb with filaments). If the threads in it are burned out, then we will no longer need this part of the light bulb, and we can safely bite off the contacts from the board. If the light bulb still burned before the breakdown, albeit dimly, you can then try to revive it for a while by connecting it to the working circuit from another product.
But it's not about that now. Our goal is to create a power supply from a ballast extracted from a light bulb. So, we delete everything that is between points A and A´ in the above diagram.
For a low-power power supply (approximately equal to the original one of the donor bulb), only a small alteration is enough. A jumper must be installed in place of the remote lamp assembly. To do this, simply wind a new piece of wire to the released pins - at the place of attachment of the former filaments of an energy-saving light bulb (or to the holes for them).
In principle, you can try to slightly increase the generated power by providing an additional (secondary) winding to the choke already on the board (it is indicated on the diagram as L5). Thus, its native (factory) winding becomes primary, and another layer of secondary provides the same power reserve. And again, it can be adjusted by the number of turns or the thickness of the wound wire.
Connecting the power supply
But, of course, it will not be possible to significantly increase the initial capacity. Everything depends on the size of the "frame" around the ferrites - they are very limited, because. originally intended for use in compact lamps. Often it is possible to apply turns in only one layer, eight to ten will be enough for a start.
Try to apply them evenly over the entire area of the ferrite to get the best performance. Such systems are very sensitive to the quality of the winding and will heat up unevenly, and eventually become unusable.
We recommend that you unsolder the inductor from the circuit for the duration of the work, otherwise it will not be easy to wind it. Clean it from factory glue (resins, films, etc.). Visually assess the condition of the primary winding wire, check the integrity of the ferrite. Since if they are damaged, there is no point in continuing to work with it in the future.
Before starting the secondary winding, lay a strip of paper or electrical cardboard on top of the primary winding to eliminate the possibility of breakdown. Adhesive tape in this case is not the best option, since over time the adhesive is on the wires and leads to corrosion.
The scheme of the modified board from the light bulb will look like this
Scheme of a modified board from a light bulb
Many people know firsthand that making the winding of a transformer with their own hands is still a pleasure. This is more of an occupation for the diligent. Depending on the number of layers, this can take from a couple of hours to a whole evening.
Due to the limited space of the throttle window, we recommend using a varnished copper cable with a cross section of 0.5 mm to create a secondary winding. Because there is simply not enough space for wires in insulation to wind any significant number of turns.
If you decide to remove the insulation from your existing wire, do not use a sharp knife, because. after the violation of the integrity of the outer layer of the winding, the reliability of such a system can only be hoped for.
Cardinal transformations
Ideally, for the secondary winding, you need to take the same type of wire as in the original factory version. But often the "window" of the throttle magnetic pickup is so narrow that it is not even possible to wind one full layer. And yet, it is imperative to take into account the thickness of the gasket between the primary and secondary windings.
As a result, it will not be possible to radically change the power output by the lamp circuit without making changes to the composition of the board components. In addition, no matter how carefully you wind up, you still won’t be able to make it as high-quality as in factory-made models. And in this case, it’s easier then to assemble an impulse block from scratch than to remake the “good” obtained for free from a light bulb.
Therefore, it is more rational to look for a ready-made transformer with the desired parameters at the dismantling of old computer or television and radio equipment. It looks much more compact than the "homemade". Yes, and its margin of safety cannot be compared.
Transformer
And you do not have to puzzle over the calculations of the number of turns to obtain the desired power. Soldered to the circuit - and you're done!
Therefore, if the power of the power supply is needed more, say, about 100 W, then you have to act radically. And only the spare parts available in the lamps are indispensable here. So if you want to increase the power of the power supply even more, you need to unsolder and remove the native choke from the bulb board (indicated in the diagram below as L5).
Detailed UPS Diagram
Connected transformer
Then, in the area between the former location of the throttle and the reactive midpoint (in the diagram, this segment is located between the isolation capacitors C4 and C6), a new powerful transformer is connected (denoted as TV2). If necessary, an output rectifier is connected to it, consisting of a pair of connecting diodes (they are indicated in the diagram as VD14 and VD15). It does not hurt to replace the diodes on the input rectifier with more powerful ones (in the diagram, this is VD1-VD4).
Do not forget to also install a larger capacitor (shown as C0 in the diagram). You need to select it from the calculation of 1 microfarad per 1 W of output power. In our case, a 100 mF capacitor was taken.
As a result, we get a fully capable switching power supply from an energy-saving lamp. The assembled circuit will look something like this.
Trial run
Trial run
Connected to the circuit, it serves as something akin to a stabilizer fuse and protects the unit during current and voltage fluctuations. If everything is good, the lamp does not particularly affect the operation of the board (due to low resistance).
But with jumps of high currents, the resistance of the lamp increases, leveling the negative impact on the electronic components of the circuit. And even if the lamp suddenly burns out, it will not be as pitiful as the impulse block assembled by your own hand, over which you pored over for several hours.
The simplest test circuit diagram looks like this.
After starting the system, observe how the temperature of the transformer (or the inductor wound with the secondary) changes. In the event that it starts to get very hot (up to 60ºС), de-energize the circuit and try replacing the winding wires with an analogue with a large cross section, or increase the number of turns. The same applies to the heating temperature of transistors. With its significant growth (up to 80ºС), each of them should be equipped with a special radiator.
That's basically it. Finally, we remind you of the observance of safety rules, since the output voltage is very high. Plus, the components of the board can get very hot without changing their appearance.
We also do not recommend using such impulse blocks when creating chargers for modern gadgets with fine electronics (smartphones, electronic watches, tablets, etc.). Why take such a risk? No one will guarantee that the "home-made" will work stably, and will not ruin an expensive device. Moreover, there are more than enough suitable goods (meaning ready-made chargers) on the market, and they are quite inexpensive.
Such a home-made power supply can be fearlessly used to connect various types of light bulbs, to power LED strips, simple electrical appliances that are not so sensitive to current (voltage) surges.
We hope you were able to master all the material presented. Perhaps he will inspire you to try to create something similar yourself. Even if the first power supply you make from a light bulb board will not be a real working system at first, you will acquire basic skills. And most importantly - the excitement and thirst for creativity! And there, you see, it will turn out to make a full-fledged power supply for LED strips, which are very popular today, out of improvised materials. Good luck!
"Angel eyes" for a car with your own hands How to make a homemade lamp from ropes Arrangement and adjustment of dimmable LED strips
While visiting the sites of foreign DIYers, I noticed that the so-called life hacking is very popular there. Literally, it translates as "hacking life." Do not think anything bad, life hacking has nothing to do with computer hacking! They just call it useful tips that help people use seemingly completely unnecessary things - empty cans, PET bottles, burnt out light bulbs, broken household appliances. They are not thrown away, but simply change their role or go to spare parts for other useful devices. I would like to suggest something similar.
Energy saving lamps are gaining popularity. The European Union generally already prohibits the production of conventional incandescent lamps. But unfortunately, energy saving lamps also sometimes fail. They can, of course, be thrown away and forgotten. And you can subject it to the hacking procedure. So let's parse burned out energy-saving lamp to try to reuse it. Because, as a rule, only the filaments in the bulb itself burn out, and the electronic components in the lamp base are operable with a probability of 99.9%.
To see what color the insides of energy saving lamp, it must be opened. In order not to injure your hands on glass tubes (they are made of thin glass and can burst at any moment), we wrap the flask with a plastic bag and grab it with tape. The place of gluing the case is obvious and we are trying to separate its parts with a screwdriver or a powerful knife. If you do this carefully, we will spend 2 minutes.
When Powersave lamp breaks up into three parts, we will see the above picture
As you can see, the main parts are flask, a board with electronic elements (radio components) and a lamp base. Now let's figure out what and how we can apply.
Bulb of an energy-saving lamp. To be honest, I haven't figured out what to do with it yet. The flask is a sealed glass shell coated from the inside with a phosphor. It is unlikely that it will be possible to open it painlessly. And to use it as some kind of float is unreliable - glass is all the same.
Plinth. This subject is already more attractive. It can be given a second life. After all, this is actually a small case, with a contact that can be screwed into any standard E27 or E14 cartridge.
The simplest application is from this plinth you can make an extension cord (low power, of course). Only it will be possible to turn it on not in an outlet, but in any cartridge. Perhaps the oldest generation remembers such devices. For some reason they were called "swindlers". Such a kind of adapter "lamp-socket". By the way, it can be very useful in our time. Especially when traveling abroad. Since the socket design system can be original and original in the country, and it is not always possible to purchase or pick up an adapter for it, but you need to charge a mobile phone, laptop, navigator, camera.
I personally once got into such a situation while relaxing in the Maldives. At that time, my ingenuity came to the rescue and the fact that I am still an electronics engineer. But some fellow tribesmen toiled with exercises until I told them.
At the same time - if they had such a "rogue" - there would be no problems! All over the world, there are only 2 standards for lamps (base) - for 27 and 14 mm bases. And you can connect to the power grid with a set of two such adapters even in Africa.
Other application plinth- make an LED night light out of it. If you take powerful lighting LEDs and match them with quenching resistance, then they can be connected to a 220-volt network. You can close everything with some small translucent toy or just a piece of plexiglass. So the LED duty lamp or night light for the child is ready. And you can screw it into an ordinary table lamp or sconce. And you can provide lighting in some kind of technical room. After all, such a lamp will consume 1-2 watts of power.
You can make an adapter from E27 to E14 (minion), and if you are friends with electronics, you can assemble some other electronic device in the base.
Energy-saving lamp electronic board. In fact, it is a power supply - a converter, and a high-frequency one.
Let's take a closer look at what's interesting on this board. So:
Diodes - 6 pcs. High-voltage (220 Volts) hold, although obviously low-power (hardly more than 0.5 Amperes). But for a diode rectifier bridge they will fit perfectly.
Throttle. The thing is basically useful, but not very. Interference on the network removes where they are.
Transistors of medium power (W by 2). Great thing, put bold +.
high voltage electrolyte. The capacitance, although small (4.7 microfarads), is 400 volts. Plus.
Ordinary capacitors for different capacities, but all for 250 volts. Plus.
Two high frequency transformers with unknown parameters. Where to apply - it is still unknown, the thing is not at all universal (except for the core).
Several resistors (the value is unknown, you must either ring with an ohmmeter, or decipher the color marks on them). Plus.
What can be done from this very small pile of parts? In fact, quite a lot. There are many schemes of useful devices "on a single transistor" in the truest sense of the word. From all kinds of watchdogs, signaling devices, temperature controllers and timers, etc., etc., etc. And we have two whole transistors!
In custody advantages and disadvantages of energy saving lamps
Benefits of energy saving lamps
Saving electricity. The efficiency of an energy-saving lamp is very high and the luminous efficiency is about 5 times greater than that of a traditional incandescent lamp. For example, a 20W energy-saving light bulb produces a luminous flux equal to that of a conventional 100W incandescent lamp. Thanks to this ratio, energy-saving lamps allow you to save up to 80% savings without losing the illumination of the room you are used to. Moreover, in the process of long-term operation from an ordinary incandescent bulb, the luminous flux decreases over time due to the burnout of the tungsten filament, and it illuminates the room worse, while energy-saving lamps do not have such a drawback.
Long service life. Compared to traditional incandescent lamps, energy-saving lamps last several times longer. Conventional incandescent bulbs fail due to the burnout of the tungsten filament. Energy-saving lamps, having a different design and a fundamentally different principle of operation, last much longer than incandescent lamps, on average 5-15 times. This is approximately from 5 to 12 thousand hours of lamp operation (usually, the lamp life is determined by the manufacturer and indicated on the package). Due to the fact that energy-saving lamps last a long time and do not require frequent replacement, they are very convenient to use in places where the process of replacing light bulbs is difficult, for example, in rooms with high ceilings or in chandeliers with complex structures, where you have to disassemble the body of the chandelier to replace the light bulb .
Low heat dissipation. Due to the high efficiency of energy-saving lamps, all the consumed electricity is converted into a light flux, while energy-saving lamps emit very little heat. In some chandeliers and fixtures, it is dangerous to use ordinary incandescent bulbs, due to the fact that they, releasing a large amount of heat, can melt the plastic part of the cartridge, adjacent wires or the body itself, which in turn can lead to a fire. Therefore, energy-saving lamps simply must be used in lamps, chandeliers and sconces with a temperature limit.
Great light output. In an ordinary incandescent lamp, light comes only from a tungsten filament. The energy-saving lamp glows over its entire area. Thanks to this, the light from the energy-saving lamp is soft and uniform, more pleasing to the eye and better distributed throughout the room.
Choice of the desired color. Due to the different shades of the phosphor covering the bulb body, energy-saving lamps have different colors of the light output, it can be soft white light, cool white, daylight, etc.;
Disadvantages of energy saving lamps
The only and significant lack of energy-saving lamps compared to traditional incandescent lamps is their high price. The price of an energy-saving light bulb is 10-20 times more than a conventional incandescent light bulb. But an energy-saving light bulb is called energy-saving for a reason. Considering the energy savings when using these lamps and their service life, in total, the use of energy-saving lamps will become more profitable for you and your budget.
There is another feature application of energy-saving lamps, which must be attributed to their disadvantage. An energy-saving lamp is filled with mercury vapor inside. Mercury is considered a dangerous poison. Therefore, it is very dangerous to break such lamps in an apartment and a room. You should be very careful when handling them. For the same reason, energy-saving lamps can be classified as environmentally harmful, and therefore they require special disposal, and throwing away such lamps is, in fact, prohibited. But for some reason, when selling energy-saving lamps in a store, the sellers do not explain where to put them later.
That's why, reusing defective lamps, we also save the environment from harmful effects.
I bought 10W 900lm warm white LEDs for trial on AliExpress. The price in November 2015 was 23 rubles apiece. The order came in a standard bag, I checked everything is working. 
To power LEDs in lighting devices, special blocks are used - electronic drivers, which are converters that stabilize the current, and not the voltage at their output. But since the drivers for them (also ordered on AliExpreess) were still on the way, I decided to power them from the ballast from energy-saving lamps. I had several of these faulty lamps. whose filament burned out in the bulb. As a rule, for such lamps, the voltage converter is working, and it can be used as a switching power supply or LED driver.
We disassemble the fluorescent lamp. 
For rework, I took a 20 W lamp, the choke of which can easily give 20 W to the load. For a 10W LED, no further modifications are required. If you plan to power a more powerful LED, you need to take a converter from a more powerful lamp, or install a choke with a large core.
I installed jumpers in the lamp ignition circuit. 
I wound 18 turns of enameled wire on the inductor, solder the conclusions of the wound winding to the diode bridge, apply mains voltage to the lamp and measure the output voltage. In my case, the unit gave out 9.7V. I connected the LED through an ammeter, which showed a current of 0.83A passing through the LED. My LED has a working current of 900mA, but I reduced the current to increase the resource. I assembled a diode bridge on the board in a hinged way.
Alteration scheme. 
The LED was installed on thermal paste on the metal shade of an old table lamp. 
I installed the power board and the diode bridge in the body of the table lamp. 
When working for about an hour, the temperature of the LED is 40 degrees. 
On the eye, the illumination is like from a 100 watt incandescent lamp. 
